When we choose a garment that says it contains viscose on the label, we rarely think about the story and effect behind the soft, silky material . Viscose is one of the most popular fabrics in fashion, promising both a natural feel and an affordable price.
But what exactly is this mysterious thread, and is it really as harmless as it seems? Now we'll show you where it comes from, how it's made, and the pros and cons of using it.
What is viscose?
The history of viscose began in 1894 , when Charles Cross and his colleagues developed it. the basis of today's process, a "semi-synthetic" fabric made from cellulose. Large-scale production began in 1905 at the Courtaulds company, initially called "artificial silk", then from 1924 it became known as "rayon".
Its popularity was due to its silky texture and low price, offering an alternative to real silk.
Charles Frederick Cross - Wikipedia
Viscose production begins with the extraction of cellulose, usually from wood or bamboo pulp, often from fast-growing plantations.
For those interested in chemistry: The cellulose is then treated with sodium hydroxide (NaOH) and then reacted with carbon disulfide to form cellulose xanthate. The material is then dissolved in an alkaline solution, forming a viscous liquid. This liquid is pressed into an acid bath and formed into fine fibers. The fibers are washed, dried, and spun.
Spinning, washing, spinning: as part of the famous “viscose process”.
It is a pleasant, soft, silky-like material, easy to dye and extremely breathable, making it ideal for clothing purposes. It is biodegradable because it consists of cellulose of natural origin. However, its production requires significant amounts of toxic chemicals , mainly carbon disulfide, which can be harmful to the health of workers and the environment.
Viscose is now prone to wrinkles and needs to be ironed frequently to keep it in good condition. It is easily deformed and damaged when wet, so it requires careful washing .
What kind of clothes are made from it, where is it used?
Viscose is primarily used to make light, soft, comfortable garments. It is a popular material for summer dresses, blouses, suits and silky, elegant shirts, as it is well ventilated and provides a soft, pleasant feeling when worn. Due to its elasticity, it is excellent for making garments that naturally follow the body's contours.
It is also used to make pajamas, underwear, scarves and various casual wear. It is common not only in clothing, but also in home textiles, such as bed linen, curtains or tablecloths. Due to its “semi-synthetic” nature, it is a popular alternative to real silk, with its advantages, such as a shiny, smooth appearance, but at a much more affordable price.
The big question – is it sustainable?
Viscose is cellulose-based, so it is naturally derived and biodegradable, making it attractive from a sustainability perspective at first glance. However, its production poses serious environmental problems. 200-300 million trees are cut down every year, often from endangered forest areas such as the Amazon or Indonesia, causing serious biodiversity loss and habitat destruction.
The issue of viscose sustainability is complex, as it offers both environmentally friendly opportunities and serious challenges.
The manufacturing process is also extremely chemically intensive, using large amounts of carbon disulfide, which is toxic to both the environment and workers in the manufacturing plants. It also uses significant amounts of water and energy. And due to complex, opaque supply chains, it is difficult to verify whether a given product is truly sustainable.
On the positive side, there are more and more sustainable viscose alternatives. Viscose made from FSC-certified wood reduces the risks of deforestation.
What is FSC? FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) is a certificate issued by an international, independent organization that guarantees that wood and wood products come from forestry that is environmentally sound, socially beneficial and economically viable.
ECOVERO and Circulose, a recycled viscose developed by Lenzing, can be produced with an even lower environmental impact, making them a more sustainable choice. than traditional viscose.
The sustainability of viscose ultimately depends on the production technology, the source of the raw material, and compliance with stricter regulations. The “EU Deforestation Regulation”, which will come into force at the end of 2024 is expected to significantly improve the situation, increasing the spread of sustainable alternatives.
Are there better options?
In the world of materials, it's hard to find sustainable options because so many have their own environmental impact. However, these 2 materials offer a much better option than viscose:
Lyocell (TENCEL):
Lyocell is an improved version of viscose, produced in a closed production cycle, significantly reducing chemical emissions. It has a soft, silky feel, excellent moisture absorption and is more durable than traditional viscose. It is often used for premium clothing items such as shirts, trousers and underwear, as well as home textiles.
Organic cotton:
Organic cotton can also be a better alternative to viscose, as it is natural, biodegradable, and can be grown more sustainably without chemicals. Although it requires a lot of water, the elimination of synthetic chemicals reduces the environmental impact. It is also skin-friendly, durable, and widely available.
Browse our organic cotton products
Summary of viscose and its sustainability
Viscose is a semi-synthetic fiber made from natural cellulose, mainly wood, through a chemical process. It has a silky feel, is breathable, and is a cheaper alternative to silk, making it widely used in clothing and home textiles.
Although biodegradable, its production has a significant environmental impact: deforestation, toxic chemicals, high water and energy requirements. More sustainable alternatives now exist, such as viscose made from FSC-certified raw materials, ECOVERO and recycled versions.
Overall, the sustainability of viscose depends largely on the production process and the source of the raw material.
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