Imagine a textile fiber that is soft, breathable and highly technical , while producing it with the least possible environmental impact. This is lyocell, one of the most promising innovations in responsible fashion in recent decades.
What is lyocell?
Lyocell is a semi-synthetic, regenerated cellulose-based fiber, produced primarily using cellulose obtained from wood.
The roots of lyocell technology date back to the 1970s : the first experimental “Newcell” fiber was developed in 1972 by the American Enka (North Carolina), and then refined to commercial level in the 1980s and 1990s by Courtaulds Fibres and the Austrian Lenzing AG. After 2000, Lenzing merged its Courtaulds and its own lyocell plants and is now the world’s leading producer. operates with a capacity of several hundred thousand tons per year
Now then, Tencel or Lyocell?
Tencel™ is a brand name for lyocell, a trademark registered by Lenzing AG in 1982, which guarantees quality and sustainability standards for lyocell production. While all Tencel™ is lyocell , not all lyocell bears the Tencel™ name. Tencel™ fibers are characterized by FSC certification, environmental audits and strict supply chain requirements, while the generic lyocell designation does not impose binding standards.
How is it made?
The pulp from logging is mechanically and chemically cleaned, then shredded and refined, similar to viscose. Beware of chemistry! :) The cellulose is dissolved with N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide (NMMO); the process is closed-loop , so ~99% of the solvent can be recovered and reused.
The viscose solution is then extruded through fine nozzles, solidified in a water bath and spun. Finally, the finished fiber is cleaned by washing and drying, and then surface-treated as necessary to achieve the desired feel and performance.
Why is it a forerunner of sustainable fashion?
The production of lyocell is a pioneer in the environmentally friendly textile industry in many ways.
A closed-loop system is used during its production (anyone who has read the chemistry section knows this), which is important because solvent recovery reduces chemical waste to a very small amount , and less than 1% escapes into the environment.
Unlike traditional viscose production , lyocell production does not use toxic carbon disulfide (CS₂), thereby reducing health and environmental risks.
In addition, the cellulose used as the raw material comes from FSC-certified, sustainable plantations, where less water and chemicals are required to cultivate tree plantations than to produce cotton plants.
What is FSC? FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) is a certificate issued by an international, independent organization that guarantees that wood and wood products come from forestry that is environmentally sound, socially beneficial and economically viable.
One of the most important things is that the production of the raw material in lyocell production uses up to 50-60% less water than traditional cotton. And best of all, the end result is a compostable material that does not burden landfills in the long term.10+1 reasons why lyocell is better than other materials
1. Excellent moisture wicking
2. Breathable and thermal regulation
3. High tensile strength wet and dry - retains even when wet
4. Soft, silky touch
5. Wrinkle-resistant - naturally less likely to wrinkle
6. Excellent shape retention: retains its original shape even after multiple washes
7. More resistant to pilling
8. Excellent paintability, vivid color retention
9. Gentle on sensitive skin
10. Antimicrobial
+1.Light and airy: thin, lightweight construction allows for freedom of movement
Use in fashion
Lyocell has quickly gained ground among the big guns of responsible fashion. Patagonia, among others, uses TENCEL™ Lyocell and REFIBRA™ technology in its clothing, emphasizing softness and breathability. But many other fashion chain collections also include this material - e.g. H&M Conscious , Zara Join Life , Everlane , Armedangels , People Tree , Lindex , Toad&Co , tentree .
Patagonia Tencel shirt and H&M flared Lyocell pants
Are there other sustainable alternatives?
Organic cotton a globally popular sustainable choice: it is grown without chemicals, is widely available and biodegradable. However, it requires more water to produce, but the fiber offers excellent moisture management and breathability. Other options include viscose from flax , hemp and bamboo , but these also vary in production method (e.g. channeled vs. closed-loop technology).
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